About Getting Back Home
Wats in Laos wear their animistic heritage like a well-loved patchwork quilt—each shrine and symbol stitching together Buddhist teachings with the land’s older spirit lore. Right at the entrance, small spirit houses (similar to Thai “san phra phum”) perch on pillars. These mini-palaces, often adorned with gilded carvings and colorful flags, pay homage to phi noo (guardian spirits) thought to oversee the grounds. Fresh blossoms, incense sticks and a tiny bowl of sticky rice sit day in, day out, ensuring these unseen custodians stay on side.
Inside the main ubosot, the Buddha’s ivory robes hang beside water jars and miniature boat offerings. Naga serpents—mythical guardians of waterways—wind their way up staircases and rooflines, their scaled bodies painted in iridescent greens and golds. At the foot of each naga, villagers leave garlands and freshly lit candles, a nod to belief that these nagas still control the ebb and flow of the Mekong.
Under a shady tamarind or peepal tree, a grove of bamboo stakes supports a spirit tower, complete with bell-shaped tiers and dangling tassels. Local craftspeople often carve masks of Taow Oo, the spirit of the wild, and place them among fruit offerings. During the recent Pi Mai Lao celebrations, some wats invited artisans to refresh these masks—an effort that’s earned praise from UNESCO’s cultural heritage bodies for keeping traditions alive.
On festival days, the ubosot courtyard hums with the crackle of firecrackers and the rustle of banana-leaf boats laden with rice cakes for indicators of land spirits. Monks may circle these altars three times, scattering holy water to seal blessings—proving that Buddhism and animism in Laos truly function as a two-way street.
Even in urban Vientiane, newer wats mirror this blend. A gleaming new viharn next to a Buddhist shrine can sport a rustic wooden altar dedicated to the village phi, reminding worshippers that no amount of marble can replace a prayer whispered to the local spirit. In Laos, faith is an artful dance between two worlds, and every wat holds the steps.